Escape the tourist traps and journey to Mystras, a medieval ghost town in Greece. Wander through crumbling castles, marvel at vibrant frescoes, and feel the weight of history.
Inland on the Peloponnese Peninsula. Beneath our wheels were hairpin turns and sheer drops that made me think twice about the quality of the brakes on our rental van. These are the kinds of roads that make you question whether you bought enough rental car insurance.
Driving inland from our night in the rustic and wonderful town of Nafplio on the Aegean Coast, where the seafood was fresh, and the ouzo flowed like water.
My family was making its way toward Laconia in mainland Greece. The mountain villages of this region relentlessly pulled my eyes from the road. Clusters of stone houses clinging to the cliffs like a scene from Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Each one is a postcard, a snapshot of a life lived far from the tourist hordes and the souvlaki scams.
Our target was Mystras, Greece. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was described to me as a medieval masterpiece, and we had to check it out for ourselves. Little did my family know that, in just a few short hours, we would be chased out of one of the world’s most beautiful ghost towns by a torrential storm.
About The Ruins Of Mystras
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Perched high on the slopes of Mount Taygetos, Mystras, Greece, is one of the most beautiful ghost towns in the world. The historic ruins aren’t your typical tourist trap. The steep hills and winding paths aren’t overrun with selfie sticks and fanny packs. This is the real deal, a ghost town clinging to life, where the spirits of wool merchants still whisper through the city’s crumbling walls.
Set as a fortress in the mid-13th century by Prince William II Villehardouin, Mystras quickly became a Byzantine stronghold. The town of Mystras was a final bastion of a mighty empire crumbling under the onslaught of the rising Ottoman dominance.
These UNESCO World Heritage ruins offer an intimate glimpse into the lives of the despots and politicians, desperate to hold on to their waning power. A place where the power plays and the backstabbing of rulers fearing a loss of power can almost be heard, echoing against the stone walls.
But Mystras isn’t just about politics and power. This place is a feast for the senses. When my family finally wound our way up the mountainside, we were confronted with a steep climb that led us through hauntingly beautiful churches. Inside, their frescoes peeled like old tattoos, telling tales of saints and sinners.
We stumbled through broken stone walls to find the remains of old shops and wineries, their pots and tanks seemingly waiting for their owners to return. Watching over it all is the dramatic monastery of Christos Zoodotes, a building where time seems to stand still.
Mystras is a place to get lost in, where the weight of history is pressed down upon us, even as the boys traipsed from one crumbling building to another. Even between the laughs, even ten-year-old Dylan was caught contemplating the rise and fall of empires. Cohen discussed the enduring power of art, and Christina spoke with her parents about the fleeting nature of human existence.
But even as we contemplated history and its relation to today, the sky above us was telling its own story. Dark, swirling, and angry, the clouds moved like specters above us. Howling, they seemed like they wanted to hold their own power over this mountain city.
We climbed upward, hoping that the relentless winds would blow over, but in a sudden crack of thunder, the skies opened up. Lightning, wind, and rain all unleashed in a moment. We took shelter in a former wool mill, but within moments, a siren was blasting over the loudspeakers.
Mystras was closed for the day, and the city’s mysteries would have to wait for another day.
Suppose you’re looking for one of the most incredible places to visit in Greece. Something off-the-beaten-path, where you can ditch the crowds and lose yourself in the “Wonder of the Morea,” as this city has been dubbed. Mystras is waiting for you.
Just make sure to listen for the ghosts.
My Guide To Visiting Mystras
Where Is Mystras?
Tucked into the steep hills of the rugged Peloponnese, just a few clicks from Sparta (yeah, that Sparta), The ruins of Mystras are perched on the slopes of Mount Taygetos. Getting there is half the fun. Think winding mountain roads, breathtaking views, and the occasional herd of goats blocking your way.
Getting To Mystras from Athens
- Drive: About 3-3.5 hours, depending on how aggressively you take those hairpin turns. Just follow the E94 towards Corinth, then hang a right on National Road 39.
- Bus: Hop on a bus from Kifissos Bus Terminal in Athens to Sparta, then grab a taxi or local bus to Mystras. Check the K-Tel website for schedules.
- Guided Tour: There are loads of great tours that include Mystras within their itinerary. Here are a few of the top-rated Mystras tours.
- Mystras Private Day Tour from Athens. Includes a visit to historic Sparta, where you’ll visit an ancient citadel and a stop at the statue of King Leonidas.
- Mystras Half – Day Tour from Monemvasia. Starting from one of my favorite Greek towns, Monemvasia, this tour offers an easy way to see Mystras without the stress. You can read about our visit to Monemvasia here.
- Glorious Sparta & Mystras Private Sightseeing. This private tour might be a little pricey, but it comes with the ability to dictate your own stops along the Sparta and Mystras tour route.
Is There Parking At Mystras?
There’s a small car park at the bottom of the site, next to the Xenia Taverna. Get there early or late if you want a decent spot. Otherwise, you’ll be walking up the steep hills. There’s another car park at the top if you’re feeling ambitious.
Getting Around Mystras
Mystras can only be explored on foot. The steep hills and narrow paths make anything else all but impossible. But be warned, those cobblestone streets are uneven, winding, and sometimes just disappear altogether. Wear some decent hiking shoes, something with good tread and ankle support. You can check out our favorite shoes for men, women, and children here.
If you’re not up for a full-on hike, stick to the lower levels. They’re still gorgeous, with plenty to see, including some of the most beautiful churches. But if you’re feeling adventurous, climb to the top for mind-blowing views.
Top Things To See In Mystras
- Palace of the Despots: This is no Buckingham Palace. Perched above Mystras, watching over the town like a shepherd, this sprawling ruin was where rulers and despots once plotted and schemed. The drama of a crumbling empire? This is where it all went down.
- Church of Agios Demetrios: This church will knock your socks off. The frescoes are colorful, exciting, and drew us all in like moths to a flame. They’ve seen some wear but look far better than most 700-year-old murals. It’s enough to make even a hardened cynic like me contemplate the meaning of life.
- Pantanassa Monastery: Still clinging to life with a handful of nuns, this place is an oasis of peace in a town that has seen the wears of time. The frescoes are top-notch, and the views will make you want to cry out just to hear your voice echo in return. Just try not to disturb the nuns; they aren’t tourist attractions.
- Church of Our Lady Hodegetria: This architectural marvel is a must-see, even if its name is tough to pronounce. Don’t miss the “Descent into Hell” fresco, it’s the kind of art that’ll make you question your own mortality.
- Fortress and Wall Walk: Want to feel like a conquering hero? Climb those walls and soak in the panoramic views. Just don’t lean over too far. Health and safety regulations are an afterthought here.
- Laskaris House: Have you ever wondered how the Byzantine elite lived? This well-preserved house offers a glimpse into their lavish lifestyle.
- Archaeological Museum of Mystras: Museums aren’t everyone’s cup of tea. But if you’re a proper history nerd, this one’s worth a bit of your time. They’ve got all sorts of ancient artifacts, from pottery to jewelry.
- Town of Mystras: After all that historical rambling, you’ll need a good meal and maybe a drink. Head down to the town of Mystras for some authentic Greek food. Skip the tourist traps and find a taverna where the locals hang out. That’s where you’ll find the good stuff. Chromata is a local favorite and has some great views to go along with solid fare.
Where To Stay In Mystras
So you’ve braved the crumbling Byzantine ruins, and now you’re ready to crash. But where to lay your weary head in Mystras? My family made our way to the town of Monemvasia, about an hour and a half from Mystras. But if you’re looking to stay close to the ruins, I’ve got you covered. Here’s the lowdown on where to stay, from budget-friendly digs to full-blown luxury accommodations.
Pyrgos of Mystra
This place is like stepping back in time. A converted 19th-century tower, it oozes old-world charm. Think antique furniture, stone walls, and views that’ll make you want to write poetry (or at least Instagram the hell out of it). It’s the kind of place where you can imagine yourself sipping ouzo on the balcony, contemplating the rise and fall of empires.
You can check their current rates and availability here.
Mystras Grand Palace Resort
Alright, this one’s for those who like their history with a side of pampering. We’re talking sprawling gardens, multiple pools, and a spa that’ll make you forget your name (in a good way). If you’re the type who likes to unwind with a massage after a long day of exploring ruins, this is your spot. Just be prepared to shell out some serious drachma.
You can check out their current rates and availability here.
Acropolis Mystra Guesthouse
This is your no-frills option, perfect for the budget-conscious traveler who’d rather spend their money on good food and strong drinks. It’s not cheap, but it’s inexpensive for a Mystras accommodation. It’s clean, comfortable, and centrally located so that you can stumble back to your room after a night of ouzo-fueled revelry. Don’t expect any fancy amenities, but hey, who needs a spa when you’ve got the ghosts of Byzantine emperors to keep you company?
You can check out their current rates and availability here.
Kyniska Palace
If you’re looking for a luxurious base camp to explore Mystras and the surrounding area, this is it. Modern amenities, stunning views, and a pool that’s practically begging you to take a dip. It’s the kind of place where you can imagine yourself sipping a cocktail while plotting your next adventure. Just try not to get too comfortable, there’s a whole world out there waiting to be explored.
You can check out their current rates and availability here.
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