Escape the crowds and discover the hidden gems of Milos, Greece. This one-day itinerary includes exploring ancient catacombs, leaping off cliffs at Sarakiniko Beach, and feasting on fresh seafood in Klima. Adventure awaits!
That rare moment of instant connection with a place hit me the second my family arrived on Milos, but our visit wouldn’t be without its disasters.
But I’ll get to that later.
In all honesty, I had never even heard of Milos until just a few months before we arrived. We were on the third day of a seven-day cruise through the Greek Islands with Celestyal Cruises. We had already visited Heraklion, Crete, Santorini, and Mykonos and were starting to settle into the relaxed Aegean lifestyle. Santorini and Mykonos were a whirlwind of selfie sticks and overpriced gyros. The crowds in Oia were so thick I swear I saw a mermaid fighting for oxygen.
We needed an antidote to the madness, a place where the only crowds were gathered around a freshly caught octopus. Milos, it turned out, was the cure.
I learned about Milos when I was at a media event in Manhattan. Those who knew the Greek Islands well all mentioned how this was their favorite island in the archipelago. So when I booked our family cruise, I was genuinely curious as to what all of the fuss was about.
This stop ended up being the best and most disastrous day of our entire seven-day cruise. Here’s what happened.
Milos in a Day: A Greek Island Escape
The sun hammered through the porthole, turning the cabin curtains into a kaleidoscope of fiery orange. I could practically smell the salt and souvlaki wafting in from the mainland. We bolted to the upper deck for a quick breakfast aboard the Celestyal Crystal and then crammed onto a tender boat for a short ride to the mainland.
We learned our lesson on Santorini, and the crowds of Mykonos had us wary. So we were ditching the organized tours and going rogue.
A hundred euros and a tiny Peugeot that smelled vaguely of feta and sported an even smaller engine, and we were careening down the road, leaving the town of Adamantas in our dust. Sarakiniko Beach was our first target.
Sarakiniko Beach, Milos: A Lunar Landscape by the Sea
Sarakiniko Beach had been described to me as “walking on the moon as if it were a paradise.” Now, I hadn’t really known how to interpret that, at least until I had arrived. But the description fit.
We arrived at the small parking lot, which was already getting quite full. Scooters, bikes, and cars, along with a steady stream of foot traffic from those who had taken the bus from Plaka Village or the port town of Adamantas. Most of them made a quick stop at the solitary food truck parked at the entrance to the narrow walkway that led down to the beach.
The boys ran ahead, Christina and I taking our time absorbing the quickly changing surroundings. The grey gravel parking lot bled into a blinding white landscape laced with rock arches, stone bridges, and towering mounds, all interspersed with the azure blue of the Aegean waters. The sun beat down, the white rocks reflecting the light like a disco ball. It was the kind of place that makes you question if you’ve accidentally wandered onto another planet. The closest I’ve ever experienced to this kind of landscape was the Algarve in Portugal.
It was mesmerizing.
More than 50 countries and countless beaches around the world, and I had never seen anything like this before. We set about exploring, drawn to the old abandoned mines dug into the cliffsides, remnants of a time when these rocks were plundered for minerals like bentonite, perlite, and baryte.
But it was the water that truly captivated us. Large rock arches tempted daredevils with the promise of a plunge into the deep blue, while long, shallow pools offered a tranquil escape for families with young children.
We set up shop at one of the latter spots. A narrow stretch of water where a small break in the smooth white sandstone had allowed the free flow of clear salty water. It was wonderful.
But I’m a bit of an adventurer, and that tall rock arch was calling my name.
The kids knew it, Christina knew it. And they all looked at me like I was an idiot.
Nevertheless, I trekked up to the top of the arch, my trusty GoPro in hand, and prepared to launch myself off of the 30-foot tall rock and into the waters below. And the second I did, I realized that one of my favorite pieces of photography gear, my trusty Gorillapod, which had been traveling with me since Christina and I made a European backpack trip nearly 30 years before, finally failed me.
I felt the leg give way, and I instantly knew that my GoPro was sailing somewhere into the abyss, with two days of photos and video with it.
Cohen and I spent about 30 minutes trying to track down the tiny camera in the clear waters, but there was no way to get it back.
Even with that loss, though, Sarakiniko Beach lived up to the hype. It was one of the most beautiful beaches I’d ever visited. And I’d come back to Milos just to spend another day here.
Klima, Milos: A Greek Fishing Village Frozen in Time
We were craving the real deal, the kind of place where you can practically taste the history in the air. So, after licking my wounds from the GoPro tragedy, we piled back into the sardine can we called a rental car and rattled off toward Klima.
That’s why we picked Klima. This fishing village is so picturesque, it could bring tears to your eyes. Venetian-style “syrmata,” the calm waters of the Aegean lapping at their colorful doors. Quiet piers stretch out into the water while rustic fishing boats bob up and down with the tides, old fishermen mending nets nearby with their calloused hands.
This trope might get used a lot, but this town is a living postcard. Each syrmata is painted with a different color, making for a kaleidoscope effect along the bright blue water. These funky fisherman’s houses might seem quaint, but they’re more than that. Each one is a tiny time capsule. The boat garages next to the water, a living space up top. This is a way of life that has existed here for centuries. And I hope it never changes.
We grabbed a table at Astakas Cafe, an open-air waterfront restaurant in the middle of town. Just a sprinkle of tables, a few with wide umbrellas to keep the summer sun out of our eyes. A day in the sun will bring out your hunger, and before we knew it, we were embarking on a feast. Ourzo with squid ink, shrimp fettuccini, and white fish dusted with tobiko. Christina and I paired it with some ouzo, of course.
After lunch, we wandered back out to the water to burn off some calories by jumping into the warm Mediterranean waters.
Milos Catacombs: Delving into the Island’s Ancient Secrets
Klima is a tiny town. So small, in fact, that there are almost no streets. So, to get there, you have to park about half a mile inland. This is also a convenient parking lot to access a few of the other incredible things to do on Milos.
The kids were gassed after a full day of swimming at Sarakiniko Beach and in Klima, so they decided to stay in the car while Christina and I went exploring. Normally, this isn’t something we’re too keen on, but let’s face it, Milos is NOT Athens or Santorini. There are no crowds here. It’s quiet and unassuming. So we figured, “What the heck, we’ll let them chill.”
Chistina and I trudged up a long, winding staircase to the Catacombs of Milos. And it’s lucky that we left when we did because they were just about to close the doors when we arrived.
Now, say the words “cave, catacombs, or underground,” and you’re sure to get our attention. And the Catacombs of Milos have all that, mixed with some incredible history. These tunnels were originally built to house the dead, but under the island’s Roman occupation, they acted as a refuge for those facing persecution. Carved out of volcanic rock by early Christians, they’re similar to the underground cities of Cappadocia but on a much smaller scale.
The small entrance fee included a guided tour where we learned that the catacombs date back to between the 1st – 5th centuries CE, making them among the oldest of this style of catacomb in the world.
Venus de Milo
Christina and I walked along the foothills beneath the village of Trypiti, following a loop from the catacombs back to our car near Klima. As we drank in the views of the beautiful village from above, we stumbled across her.
She was staring out over the Aegean waters, majestic and beautiful in her natural surroundings. It was a replica, of course. The original Venus de Milo had been ceremoniously recovered after being found in pieces. Torn from her native land by the Marquis de Rivière, the French ambassador to Greece, and presented to King Louis XVIII back in 1820. She now stands proudly at the Louvre in Paris, one of the museum’s signature attractions.
But a grand hall, surrounded by gawking tourists, isn’t her natural habitat. It’s here where the cotton cloud skies meet the azure water. This is where she’s at her most beautiful. Even the plaque that accompanied the original Venus de Milo was recreated here. It reads, “Alexandros, son of Menides, citizen of Antioch of Maeander, made the statue.”
Antioch, that name would bring even more meaning to my family just two weeks later when we arrived at the summit of Mount Nemrut and the tomb of King Antiochus I.
Ancient Theater of Milos
Having had our fill of death and ancient vibes in the catacombs, we continued on the walking loop back to the car. And there it was, an amphitheater with a view almost as jaw-dropping as the one we had visited in the ancient ruins of Delphi just a few months before.
This Hellenistic theater was carved right into the hillside, overlooking what is now the town of Klima. Standing there, looking over the stage and stands, it was hard not to imagine crowds of rowdy Greeks heckling actors and throwing olive pits while plays by Euripides and Sophocles took to the stage. We could almost hear the echoes of the ancient dramas.
As we would our way down the hillside and back to our trusty Peugeot, we were smacked back to reality.
The kids weren’t there.
No cell service, no people around. Christina and I decided to trek back up toward the catacombs, hoping that the boys had simply been bored and decided to follow us. Shouting their names brought me back to that terrifying day back in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, when 2-year-old Dylan wandered away. Of course, at 10 and 12, these kids were no longer wee babies, and after 30 countries each, they knew their way around most places.
As we got back up to the entrance, we heard the muffled shouts from nearby. It was Cohen’s unmistakable voice. After some hugs and a few stern comments about staying put and not wandering off, it was time to make our way back to the Celestyal Crystal.
Saying Goodbye to Milos
Milos, man, it got under my skin. This is the kind of place that reminds me of why we travel in the first place.
Sure, there were some mishaps; I lost a GoPro, and the kids went AWOL for a bit. But that’s life, right? Things happen, even in paradise. But you know what? It just made the whole experience that much more memorable. We connected with this island in a way we hadn’t with any other place on the cruise.
Milos forced us to slow down, to breathe, to appreciate the simple things – the taste of fresh seafood, the feel of the sun on our skin, the sound of the waves crashing against the shore. And those moments, those are the ones we’ll carry with us long after the souvenirs have gathered dust and the tan lines have faded. Milos was a reminder that sometimes, the best travel experiences are the ones that don’t go according to plan.
So embrace the chaos, embrace the unexpected, and let yourself get lost in the beauty of it all. You might just find yourself, too.
Our Greek Islands Cruise Video
Want to dive deeper into the experiences that we had during our 7-day cruise through the Greek Islands, stopping in Crete, Mykonos, Santorini, Athens, and Thessaloniki? Check out our video on YouTube. Don’t forget to like and subscribe!
More Things To Do In Milos
Visit the Fishing Villages: Where Time Stands Still (and the Fish is Fresh)
We visited the town of Klima, and it was as charming as you can imagine. But there are several beautiful fishing villages scattered across Milos. Consider a stop in Mandrakia, a town with a laid-back vibe and waterfront tavernas serving up the catch of the day, is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle. Just be prepared to fight off the stray cats for your lunch.
Sunset at Plaka Castle: Chasing the Golden Hour (and Avoiding the Crowds)
No trip to the Greek islands is complete without witnessing a sunset. And in Milos, there’s no better place to do it than Plaka Castle. Sure, the town square is charming, but it’s also a magnet for tourists. Hike up to the castle, find a quiet spot overlooking the Aegean, and watch as the sky explodes in a symphony of colors. It’s the kind of moment that makes you forget about your troubles, your deadlines, and the fact that you lost your GoPro at the bottom of the sea.
Rent a Boat and Go to Kleftiko: Captain Your Own Adventure
In Milos, you can easily take charge of your own adventure. Rent your own boat and explore the hidden gems of the Aegean Sea. Kleftiko, a former pirate hideout with caves, grottos, and water so turquoise it’ll make your eyeballs bugle, is a must-see.
One of the most popular boat rental companies is Firiplaka Boat Rental. They offer half-day and full-day rentals so you can set your own pace, linger in secluded coves, and pretend to be modern-day pirates searching for buried treasure (or at least a decent bottle of ouzo).
If navigating the open seas isn’t your thing, there’s always Sailing Milos. They’ll take you deep into the caves so you can experience the thrill of claustrophobia and natural beauty all at once.
Explore the Beaches: Sand, Sea, and a Touch of Adventure
Milos is a beach lover’s paradise, with a coastline that’s more diverse than a politician’s promises. From the lunar landscape of Sarakiniko to the hidden gem of Tsigrado, there’s a beach for every mood. Just remember to pack your sunscreen, your sense of adventure, and maybe a good book to keep you company while you soak up the sun.
The Best Beaches in Milos:
- Sarakiniko: Where the Moon Meets the Sea – Sarakiniko is the poster child of Milos, and for good reason. This otherworldly landscape of white volcanic rock formations is like nothing you’ve ever seen before. It’s the perfect place to channel your inner astronaut, leap off cliffs into the turquoise water, and pretend you’re exploring a distant planet. Just watch out for those sharp rocks – they’re not as forgiving as they look.
- Tsigrado: The Secret Beach That’s Worth the Effort – Reaching Tsigrado is half the fun. You’ll need to navigate a narrow gorge, clinging to a rope for dear life, and descend a rickety ladder that looks like it was built by a drunken pirate. But trust me, the reward is worth the risk. This secluded cove, with its crystal-clear water and dramatic cliffs, is the definition of paradise. Just don’t forget to pack your own snacks and water because you won’t find any vendors down there.
- Firiplaka: Beauty Without the Bruises – If Tsigrado sounds a bit too adventurous for your taste, head to Firiplaka. This stunning beach offers all the beauty without the near-death experience. Rent a sunbed, order a cocktail, and soak up the sun while the gentle waves lap at your feet. It’s the perfect place to unwind and recharge your batteries.
- Paleochori: A Feast for the Senses – Paleochori is a riot of colors, with red and yellow cliffs contrasting against the turquoise water. It’s also a great spot for foodies, with a beachside cafe serving up delicious Greek specialties. Order a plate of fresh seafood, sip on a glass of local wine, and let the worries of the world melt away.
Tips For Visiting Milos
When To Visit Milos: Escape the Madness
The great thing about Milos is that it’s not Santorini or Mykonos. It may not draw the crowds of its sibling, but word is getting out. The paradise of Milos won’t last forever. June and July are the busiest months, avoid it if you want some space on the beach.
Think of the shoulder season, April to June or September to November. The water’s a bit brisk earlier in the year, but you’ll have the island practically to yourself. Plus, you won’t have to remortgage your house to pay for a hotel room.
Winter in Milos? Let’s just say it’s not exactly a tropical paradise. Think gale-force winds that could rip the toupee off a politician and enough rain to make Noah nervous. Stick to the shoulder
Getting To Milos: The Journey is Half the Battle
Getting to Milos isn’t exactly a walk in the park. The limited ferry and flight options are a testament to the island’s commitment to exclusivity. There is a ferry ride from Santorini that’s great in good weather but choppy in rough seas. But hey, it’s not an adventure without a bit of chaos.
Getting Around Milos: Embrace the Freedom of the Open Road (or Dirt Path)
Milos is a place to ditch the tour buses and pre-packaged itineraries. If you want to experience the real Milos, rent an ATV or a small car. ATVs will allow you to explore the hidden coves, conquer those treacherous dirt roads, and feel the wind whipping through your hair as you outrun the apocalypse… or at least the crowds. Just remember, ATVs and ouzo don’t mix. Unless you want to end up as a cautionary tale on a Greek travel blog, stick to water when you’re behind the handlebars.
If you’re traveling as a family, a small car will get you to 99% of the best places to visit on Milos. Just remember that the roads are narrow, windy, and you’ll need to pay attention, especially around corners in the towns and villages.
How Long to Stay In Milos: Time is an Illusion (But Book at Least Two Days)
If you’re like us and only have one day to spend in Milos, thanks to the short itineraries of cruise ship port-of-calls, check out the top things to do in Milos and choose what works best for you. But, if you have a little more time, two or three days in Milos is enough to scratch the surface. Trust me, though, you’ll be itching to stay longer.
This island has a way of getting under your skin, like a stray cat that refuses to leave your doorstep. You’ve been warned. If you’re the type who likes to rush from one sight to the next, ticking boxes off a list, then Milos might not be your cup of tea. But if you prefer to savor the moment, get lost in the backstreets, and strike up conversations with the locals, then you’ll find yourself wanting to stay forever.
Disclosure: Our time aboard Celestyal Cruises and our tour of Santorini was in partnership with the cruise line. All opinions remain my own.
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