Discover Wapusk National Park’s untouched beauty. Polar bears, beluga whales, & stunning tundra await. Plan your remote adventure in Manitoba’s north.
Below me, a lone elk splashed through the marshy tundra of Wapusk National Park, sprinting with splendid ease across the green landscape toward the stubby sprigs of the northernmost Boreal forest of Manitoba’s far north.
It was a young “wapiti,” an elk, an adolescent by the looks of it. And the thunder of our helicopter had sent the animal flying through the flooded landscape not far from the town of Churchill, Manitoba. My family was on a helicopter tour with Custom Helicopters, a small operator in the remote town on the edge of Hudson Bay.
In the back, my wife Christina and our two boys, Cohen and Dylan, were in awe of the variety of wildlife that Wapusk National Park was gracing us with while I was still trying to come to grips with the fact that only around 150 visitors get the chance to experience this Canadian gem each year.
The four of us were in Churchill for five days, and our goal was to experience as many of the amazing things to do in Churchill as possible during the late summer season. We had kayaked with beluga whales, drove across the Hudson Bay waterfront in search of the town’s most famous residents, and even discovered that Churchill is one of Manitoba’s secret culinary hotspots.
But as flocks of birds painted the skies white against the greens, browns, and yellows of the sub-arctic tundra foliage, and pods of gleaming beluga whales broke the turquoise surface of Hudson Bay, the animal that had drawn us to this northern landscape finally came into view.
Polar Bears.
In fact, the park’s name, “Wapusk,” means “White Bear” in the Indigenous Cree language. Yet these were far from the fierce creatures that we had seen on display the day prior at the Parks Canada Visitor Centre, located in the refurbished train station in the middle of town. Instead, these iconic Canadian animals lay on the rocks and grass, sprawled out, soaking up the mid-day sun like they were on a beach in the Caribbean.
Churchill, Manitoba, is, after all, the Polar Bear Capital of the world. During the summer, when these animals aren’t wandering through the town’s baseball fields, they’re here. In Wapusk National Park, relax until the ice comes in, and they can begin their yearly seal hunt.
About Wapusk National Park
Wapusk National Park is one of the most remote and least-visited national parks in Canada and one of just two National Parks in Manitoba, the other being Riding Mountain National Park, which is about a three-hour drive from Winnipeg. We visited Riding Mountain right after our visit to Churchill.
So few visitors come here because, well, getting here isn’t easy. There are no roads that connect southern Manitoba with the town of Churchill. The only way to reach it is by train or plane. And those who have made it to Churchill still have to figure out how to visit the park itself.
There are no roads in Wapusk. In fact, its sprawling 2,836,000 acres are so undeveloped that even the park’s visitor center doesn’t sit within its own park boundaries. The only way to get here is by helicopter, boat, or ATV in the summer and by snowmobile in the winter.
But those who do make it here discover that Wapusk National Park is home to a magnificent array of wildlife, including polar bears, beluga whales, moose, and elk, and it’s one of the greatest birding destinations in Canada. Most of those who do come to Wapusk tend to be researchers. Those studying northern Canada’s abundant wildlife and climate change, and Inuit and First Nations peoples who still use the land for traditional hunting.
Here, the tundra stretches as far as the eye can see, unfolding as a mosaic of low-lying shrubs, windswept grasses, and shimmering ponds. It’s a world shaped by ice and wind, and here, nature reigns supreme. The landscape is considered a Transition Region. Covering a large section of the Hudson-James Lowlands, a subarctic ecological region that stretches from Manitoba’s boreal forests to the south to the Arctic tundra of Nunavut to the north.
During the summer, polar bears, Wapusk National Park’s most famous residents, roam freely in the low-lying boreal forests in the park’s southern stretches. Beluga whales gather in the coastal shores of Hudson Bay. Caribou herds migrate across the tundra, their movements dictated by the rhythm of the seasons.
Wapusk’s isolation is one of its most fascinating features. It’s the most accessible of Canada’s most remote National Parks, yet it still requires tremendous amounts of planning to visit. This is a double-edged sword that preserves its pristine nature while limiting human intrusion.
With only a small number of visitors each year, the park remains a sanctuary for wildlife and a testament to Parks Canada’s most untouched wilderness regions, such as Quttinirpaaq National Park in Nunavut, Tuktut Nogait National Park in the Northwest Territories, and Ivvavik National Park in the Yukon Territory. Wapusk NP is a place for those seeking solitude, a chance to connect with the natural world in its most elemental form. Whether witnessing the majesty of a polar bear in its natural habitat, marveling at the aerial ballet of migrating birds, or simply absorbing the quiet grandeur of the tundra landscape, a journey to Wapusk is an experience that will leave an indelible mark on the soul.
Solitude may be the goal, but ironically, you can’t visit Wapusk National Park alone.
How To Visit Wapusk National Park
A visit to Wapusk National Park is not a solo endeavor. Unescorted travel within the park is strictly prohibited. This is to protect the delicate balance between experiencing this extraordinary place and protecting its fragile ecosystem and its inhabitants as well as those visiting. This means you.
Careful planning is not just recommended, it’s essential. Escorting guides, tour operators, and local hotels often book up well in advance, so reserving a spot early is paramount. During the peak polar bear viewing seasons, particularly the coastal gathering in autumn, comprehensive tour packages are the most common and often the most practical way to experience Wapusk. These packages typically handle all the logistics from your arrival in Winnipeg onward, allowing you to focus on the adventure ahead.
Tundra Buggy
For those specifically hoping to witness young polar bear cubs emerging from their dens, Frontiers North offers a fascinating Tundra Buggy experience on the edge of Wapusk. I did the Frontiers North Churchill Tundra Buggy tour with my family, and it was pretty wild (pun intended).
We witnessed the amazing bird life of the Hudson Bay shore, and Cohen led an incredibly rare sighting of a young black wolf hunting and ultimately catching a Canada Goose. My friends at Frontiers North still talk about how cool and unique that experience was today.
We weren’t lucky enough to see polar bears during our Tundra Buggy tour, but it’s quite common to see them in Churchill in late summer to late fall. In fact, we even saw one while we were driving down the road from the remains of the old rocket research station on the edge of town.
Polar Bear Lodges
There are a number of companies in Churchill that run polar bear lodges. But only Wat’chee Lodge offers accommodations within Wapusk National Park itself. This unique and highly sought-after experience is one of the few places on Earth where an intimate glimpse into polar bear family life is possible.
‘Wat’chee’, meaning “a hill covered with trees in the middle of the tundra” in Cree, has very limited capacity, and it’s only open for four weeks, from mid-February to mid-March. Reaching Wat’chee Lodge is a memorable journey. Travelers take an overnight train from Churchill, disembarking at a remote stop called Chesnaye. From there, lodge staff greet guests and transport them to the lodge via specially equipped all-terrain vehicles, navigating the challenging tundra terrain.
Flightseeing
If you want to see as much of Wapusk National Park as possible but you’re ok with not presenting yourself as a platter for a polar bear, flightseeing might be the best opportunity for you. Two companies currently offer flightseeing tours of Wapusk National Park. Custom Helicopters was the company that my family used during our visit, and Prairie Helicopters is a company recommended by Parks Canada itself.
Flightseeing tours often take guests out over Hudson Bay, where they can see beluga whales swimming off the coast, and deep into Wapusk National Park for a chance to see polar bears, elk, moose, and birds.
Guided Hiking
There is only one company licensed to offer guided hikes in Wapusk National Park. Wat”chee Expeditions offer accommodations and hiking within Wapusk National Park. Their expert guides can take adventurers within 100 meters of the resident polar bears.
Wat’chee Expeditions has very limited space, so if you are interested in booking with them, I suggest you do it right now. But, if you’re only looking to see polar bears in the wild, whether it’s within Wapusk National Park or not, there are many companies, such as Churchill Wild, that offer polar bear lodges on the shores of Hudson Bay. You can also check out my guide on how to see polar bears in Churchill for a number of other alternatives, including a DIY polar bear safari.
How To Get To Wapusk National Park
Reaching Wapusk National Park is an adventure in and of itself. This is a journey that begins long before you set foot on the tundra. Regardless of the chosen mode of transport, the journey to Wapusk is a reminder that reaching this remote wilderness is a privilege, a testament to one’s commitment to experiencing its unique and unparalleled beauty.
Plane
The most common route involves flying north from Winnipeg, Manitoba, to Churchill, the gateway to Wapusk. Both Calm Air and Kivalliq Air offer flights, a roughly two to two-and-a-half-hour journey that teases the vast landscapes to come.
Drive And Fly
For the budget-conscious traveler, a less expensive option exists: drive north on Highway 6 to the town of Thompson, Manitoba, followed by a shorter, one-hour flight on Calm Air to Churchill (Kivalliq Air doesn’t service Thompson). But be warned: Arctic weather can be capricious, and winter blizzards can wreak havoc on flight schedules, turning a simple commute into an exercise in patience.
Train
For those with a taste for slow travel, VIA Rail’s Hudson Bay Line offers a twice-weekly train service from Winnipeg to Churchill, a two-night journey (in theory). The reality, however, can be quite different. During the winter, frost heaves can buckle the tracks, forcing the train to crawl at a snail’s pace, turning the trip into a multi-day odyssey.
Sleeper cars offer a touch of comfort, while economy class provides a more… intimate… experience. Like the air route, the train also stops in Thompson, offering another point of entry. From Thompson, travelers can either continue by rail or opt for a connecting flight on Calm Air, requiring a short taxi ride between the train station and the airport.
When To Visit Wapusk National Park
Timing your travel to Wapusk National Park is crucial. The narrow windows of opportunity are dictated by the rhythms of the sub-arctic seasons and the movements of its iconic inhabitants. For those drawn to the spectacle of polar bears gathering on the coast, late October and early November offer the prime window (although I was able to experience this in late August as well, with a smaller number of bears).
This is when the greatest of all bears congregate, preparing for their journeys onto the sea ice. Alternatively, if witnessing the adorable antics of young cubs emerging from their dens is the goal, mid-February to mid-March is the time to venture north.
Summer in Wapusk opens up different possibilities. Helicopter access allows for guided tundra hikes, offering unrivaled opportunities for wildlife spotting and immersing oneself in Wapusk NP’s unique ecosystem.
Birders and wildlife enthusiasts can also explore the tundra surrounding Churchill, a convenient base just northwest of the park. July brings another highlight: the chance to don a dry suit and experience the magic of swimming, SUP, or kayaking with hundreds of beluga whales and their calves in the Churchill River estuary.
Regardless of the season you choose to visit, a word of caution is necessary: exploring the area around Churchill, particularly on foot, requires vigilance. Polar bears can wander into town, and guided hikes with trained escorts carrying firearms are the only safe way to visit Wapusk National Park.
Respecting the wild nature of this region and maintaining a watchful eye is paramount for a safe and unforgettable Wapusk experience for you and for generations to come.
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